How Your AC Works.

Many Tampa Bay homes are cooled and heated by a heat pump: an outdoor unit and an indoor air handler joined by copper lines. Take either one apart below and tap any part to see what it does, what goes wrong, and the warning signs to watch for.

A heat pump's outdoor unit joined by copper lines to an indoor air handler in a closet

Loading the 3D model…

Pick a part

Outdoor unit

Indoor unit

Between the units

Every Part, Explained.

Fan Guard

The wire grille on top. It keeps hands, sticks and debris out of the fan while the hot air blows out the top.

The grille itself rarely fails. Leaves and debris collect on it, and on many units the fan motor hangs from it, so a loose or rusted grille can make the fan rattle.

  • Rattling from the top of the unit
  • Leaves or debris piled on the grille

Never reach through the grille. The fan can start at any moment when the thermostat calls.

Outdoor Fan Motor

Spins the fan that moves outdoor air across the coil. Without it, the heat has nowhere to go.

Bearings wear out and the motor can overheat after years of long Florida run times. A weak capacitor can also keep it from starting, which looks just like a dead motor.

  • The fan doesn't spin while the unit hums
  • The fan starts slowly, or only after a nudge
  • Grinding or squealing from the top
  • The unit shuts itself off after running a while

Turn the system off and call us. Running without the fan can overheat the compressor.

Fan Blade

Pulls air in through the sides of the unit, across the coil, and pushes it out the top.

A bent, cracked or loose blade throws the fan off balance, and a blade that slips on its shaft stops moving enough air.

  • Wobbling, vibration or a ticking sound
  • The fan spins but little air comes out the top

Top Panel

Closes off the top of the cabinet and holds the round opening the fan sits in, which shapes the airflow.

It rarely fails. A dent or rust around the opening can let the blade rub.

  • Scraping or rubbing noise from the top of the unit

Louvered Side Panels

Protect the coil's thin fins from lawn equipment, hail and pets while letting air flow in.

Panels get dented. Behind them, grass clippings, leaves and dirt pack into the coil and block the air.

  • Debris visible through the louvers
  • Shrubs, fences or stored items crowding the unit

Outdoor Coil

Copper tubes wrapped in thin aluminum fins. In Cool mode it releases the heat taken out of your home. In Heat mode it works in reverse and gathers heat from the outdoor air.

Dirt and clippings clog the fins so the coil can't shed heat. Over time the tubes can corrode and leak refrigerant, and salt air near the coast speeds that up.

  • Weaker cooling and higher power bills
  • The system runs and runs without catching up
  • Oily spots on the coil
  • Ice on the coil in Heat mode that doesn't clear

Compressor

The heart of the system. It pumps refrigerant around the loop and squeezes it into a hot, high-pressure gas.

Compressors usually fail because something else failed first: a weak capacitor, a stuck contactor, low refrigerant, a dirty coil or a dead fan that lets it overheat. Catching those early protects the most expensive part of the system.

  • The unit hums or clicks but won't start
  • The breaker trips
  • The outdoor fan runs but the air inside isn't cold
  • Loud banging or rattling when it starts

Turn the system off and call us. Restarting a struggling compressor over and over can finish it off.

Reversing Valve

The part that makes a heat pump a heat pump. It flips the direction the refrigerant flows, so the same system cools in summer and heats in winter.

The valve can stick in one position, or the electric coil that moves it can fail.

  • Stuck in one mode: cool air when you asked for heat, or the other way around
  • A short whoosh when it switches modes is normal

Accumulator

A small tank on the line back to the compressor. It catches liquid refrigerant so only vapor reaches the compressor, which protects it.

It can rust through over the years and leak refrigerant.

  • Rust or oily residue on the tank
  • Cooling that slowly gets weaker

Refrigerant Piping

Copper tubing that connects the compressor, reversing valve, accumulator and coil, carrying refrigerant around the loop.

Vibration can rub a tube against another tube or the cabinet until it wears through, and joints can crack.

  • A hissing sound
  • Oily spots on the tubing
  • Ice on the copper lines

Service Valves

Where the copper lines from your indoor unit connect. Technicians hook up gauges here to check the system, and the valves can close to hold the refrigerant in the outdoor unit during repairs.

Missing caps and worn valve cores let refrigerant slowly leak out.

  • Oily residue around the valves
  • Missing brass caps
  • Ice on the larger copper line

Control Box

Holds the electrical parts that switch the outdoor unit on and off: the contactor, the capacitor and, on a heat pump, the defrost board.

Heat, moisture and insects get in, and wires can loosen or burn.

  • A burning smell near the unit
  • Clicking without the unit starting
  • The breaker trips

High voltage inside. Only a technician should open it, with the power off at the disconnect.

Contactor

An electric switch. When your thermostat calls for cooling or heat, a small signal pulls it closed and sends full power to the compressor and fan.

The contacts pit and burn over time. In Florida, ants are drawn to the electricity and get crushed between the contacts, which can stop the unit from starting.

  • The outdoor unit won't start even though the thermostat is calling
  • The outdoor unit won't shut off
  • Buzzing or chattering from the unit

High voltage. Turn the system off and call us.

Run Capacitor

Stores energy and releases it to help the compressor and fan motor start and keep running smoothly. On most units one can serves both.

One of the most common AC repairs, especially in Florida heat. Capacitors weaken with heat and age, and the top can bulge or leak.

  • A hum, but the fan won't spin
  • The unit tries to start and gives up
  • Warm air from the vents

A capacitor holds a dangerous charge even with the power off. Don't touch it.

Defrost Control Board

Heat pumps only. On cold, damp mornings in Heat mode, frost builds on the outdoor coil. This board senses it and briefly runs the system in reverse to melt it off.

The board or its temperature sensor can fail, so the coil never gets defrosted.

  • The outdoor coil stays caked in ice
  • Heat gets weaker on cold days
  • Steam rising from the unit during a defrost is normal

Access Panel

Covers the control box and the line connections. The data plate with the model and serial number is usually here.

It rarely fails. A loose or missing panel lets rain and pests into the electrical parts.

  • The panel is loose or missing

Only open it with the power off at the disconnect box beside the unit.

Base Pan and Frame

The steel base and corner posts that hold everything square and level on the pad. Holes in the base let rainwater drain out.

Rust, and pads that settle and tilt the unit.

  • The unit leans
  • Rust along the bottom
  • Water standing inside the base

Air Handler Cabinet

The insulated metal box, usually in a closet, garage or attic, that holds the indoor parts and keeps the air moving the right way.

Gaps at the seams and panels pull in hot, humid air from around the unit, and rust starts where condensation sits.

  • Whistling around the cabinet
  • Sweating or rust on the outside of the cabinet

Access Panels

The removable doors on the front of the air handler. Technicians take them off to reach the blower, coil and filter.

A loose panel or missing screws let air leak in and out, and some units won't run the blower with a door off.

  • Air whistling around the doors
  • A panel that rattles or won't sit flat

Turn off the power at the breaker before opening. The blower and heat strips run on high voltage.

Air Filter

Catches dust, pet hair and debris before they reach the coil and blower, and before they get blown back into your home.

A clogged filter starves the system of air. The coil can freeze, the blower strains and cooling drops off.

  • A filter that looks gray and packed with dust
  • Weak airflow from the vents
  • Dust building up around the vents
  • Ice on the indoor coil or copper lines

Indoor Coil

Copper tubes and aluminum fins, often shaped like an A. In Cool mode, cold refrigerant inside it pulls heat and moisture out of the air blowing across it. In Heat mode it gives heat off instead.

Dirt on the fins blocks the air. Low airflow or low refrigerant can make it freeze, and over time corrosion can open tiny leaks.

  • Warm air from the vents
  • Ice on the coil or the larger copper line
  • A hissing or bubbling sound
  • Water around the air handler from melting ice

Metering Device

Sits where the liquid line enters the indoor coil. It meters how much refrigerant goes in and drops its pressure so it turns cold. On many systems it's an expansion valve (TXV) with a small sensing bulb.

The valve can stick open or closed, or its sensing bulb can come loose or lose its charge.

  • Weak cooling even though the outdoor unit runs
  • Frost right where the small line enters the coil

Drain Pan

Sits under the indoor coil and catches the water the coil pulls out of the air. In Florida's humidity, that is a lot of water.

Algae and sludge build up in it, and older metal pans can rust through and leak.

  • Standing water in the pan
  • Water stains or puddles around the air handler
  • A musty smell

Condensate Drain Line

The pipe that carries water from the drain pan to a drain or outdoors. The U-shaped trap keeps air from being pulled in through it.

Florida's heat and humidity grow algae and slime inside it until it clogs. A clogged drain is one of the most common AC service calls here.

  • Water around the air handler, or ceiling stains below it
  • The system shuts off and won't restart
  • Gurgling from the drain

Float Switch

A safety switch on the drain pan or drain line. If water backs up, it shuts the system off before the pan overflows.

Usually it's doing its job because the drain is clogged. Now and then the switch itself sticks.

  • The system stops cooling and won't restart
  • The thermostat screen goes blank on some systems

Turn the system off and call us. A tripped float switch means water has nowhere to go.

Blower

The squirrel-cage wheel and its housing. It pulls air from your home through the filter and coil and pushes it out through the ducts.

Dust cakes onto the blades so it moves less air, and wheels can crack or work loose on the shaft.

  • Weak airflow even with a clean filter
  • Rattling or scraping from the air handler
  • Dust blowing out of the vents

Blower Motor

Spins the blower wheel. Many newer motors adjust their speed to match what the system needs.

Bearings wear, the motor overheats or its electronics fail. On older motors a weak capacitor can keep it from starting.

  • No air from the vents while the outdoor unit runs
  • Humming or a burning smell from the air handler
  • The blower starts and stops on its own

Turn the system off and call us. Without the blower the indoor coil can freeze.

Heat Strips

Electric heating elements that act as backup heat. They help on the coldest mornings, take over in emergency heat, and warm the air while the outdoor unit defrosts.

Elements burn out, and the safety limits and relays that switch them can fail.

  • Heat that's weaker than usual on cold days
  • A faint burning-dust smell the first time heat runs each season is normal
  • A strong burning smell that doesn't go away

High voltage and very hot. Never reach into the air handler with the power on.

Control Board

The air handler's brain. It takes signals from the thermostat and turns on the blower and heat strips. The small transformer beside it powers the thermostat.

Power surges and lightning damage boards, and a short in the thermostat wiring can blow its small fuse or the transformer.

  • The thermostat screen is blank
  • Nothing runs, inside or out
  • The blower runs nonstop

High voltage. Leave it to a technician.

Supply Plenum

The sheet-metal box on top of the air handler where the conditioned air leaves and splits into the supply ducts.

Gaps and torn insulation leak cool air into the closet or attic, and the metal sweats.

  • Sweating or dripping on the plenum
  • Rooms that never cool well
  • Dust streaks at the joints

Thermostat

The control on your wall. It reads the room and tells the system when to cool, heat or just run the fan.

Dead batteries, a loose wire, the wrong setting, or a spot in the sun or a draft that fools its sensor.

  • A blank screen
  • The system runs but never reaches your setting
  • Short on-and-off cycles

Line Set

Two copper lines that run between the units. The larger, insulated line carries refrigerant vapor; the smaller one carries liquid. A thin wire beside them lets the thermostat switch the outdoor unit on and off.

Sun and weather break down the insulation, lines get kinked or crushed, and joints can leak.

  • Torn or missing insulation on the larger line
  • Sweating or dripping lines indoors
  • Ice on the copper lines
  • Oily spots at the joints

Comfort Can’t Wait. Neither Do We.

Or call our second line: 813-247-9283

Let’s Get Your System Fixed.

Address
4819 N Cortez Ave, Tampa, FL 33614
Service Area
Pasco, Pinellas, Hillsborough & Sarasota Counties
License
CAC1816350
Follow Us

Book Your Appointment Online

Schedule service in a few clicks through our online booking system — pick a time that works for you.

Book Online via Housecall Pro

Prefer to talk? Call 813-918-0024 — we’re available 24/7.